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Thread: Nationals: Tips for skiing a steeper course

  1. #11
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    Biking is a great way to lower your bone density if you don't also do anaerobic weight training.

    AMS can affect anyone, regardless of their athletic/aerobic condition.

    For rapid ascent, there are options, all accomplishing slightly different things.

    Ginko Biloba: thought to reduce vascular permeability in the brain via inhibition of nitric oxide synthase enzymes. Qualitative improvement in AMS symptoms; unknown effect on pulmonary edema.

    Viagra: Helps with pulmonary edema

    Albuterol: In asthmatics especially, can facilitate better breathing and can reduce chances of pulmonary edema.

    Acetazolamide: prevents respiratory alkalosis and stimulates hyperventilation at high altitudes; assists kindeys in removal of bicarbonate

    Dexamethasone and portable hyperbaric chambers: You need these in emergencies, but descent down to Denver will be MANDATORY if cerebral edema is suspected. The classic sign of cerebral edema is ataxic gait (clumsy uncoordinated walking), and there are other signs as well.

    Straight oxygen is unlikely to help that much as the partial pressure of O2 will instantly be reduced when it leaves the oxygen tube and enters your nasal canal.

  2. #12
    Senior Member chuckp7600's Avatar
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    deleted - no point screwing up this useful thread
    Last edited by chuckp7600; 03-09-2012 at 10:51 PM.

  3. #13
    Senior Member jclose8's Avatar
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    I'll add that one to my collection as well. This seriously might be his best post ever. It's between this one and his one about wearing an ABS airbag pack and Avalung to race at Winter Park.
    Last edited by jclose8; 03-09-2012 at 06:06 PM.
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  4. #14
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    It would behoove both of you gentlemen to educate yourselves about AMS, perhaps then you wouldn't poke fun at the post, or the fact someone died skiing in-bounds at Winter Park this year. And jclose either misunderstands what I write or takes liberties with his imagination, as I never said I was considering wearing an Avalung or ABS pack to race.

    My info came straight from "Guide to Wilderness Medicine," authored by an MD, so I really don't appreciate the mockery. I'm going to assume you two are among the people who don't know what "vascular permeability," and related terms are.
    Last edited by villaski; 03-09-2012 at 06:12 PM.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by villaski View Post
    The classic sign of cerebral edema is ataxic gait (clumsy uncoordinated walking), and there are other signs as well.
    I do that even at sea level :D

  6. #16
    Senior Member chuckp7600's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastMan View Post
    And wax those skis multiple times, to saturate the bases so theyre prepared for that big race. Final race wax according to temperature should happen in Winter Park, the night before the race, when youre pretty sure you know what the weather on race day is going to be.
    Back to seriousness

    FastMan - does it matter what sort of wax you use for the initial coats? And is it wax/scrape/brush - repeat or do you just keep waxing and scraping for the initial coats? I've got a pair of skis that only have a couple days on them.

  7. #17
    Senior Member jclose8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckp7600 View Post
    Back to seriousness

    FastMan - does it matter what sort of wax you use for the initial coats? And is it wax/scrape/brush - repeat or do you just keep waxing and scraping for the initial coats? I've got a pair of skis that only have a couple days on them.
    Dominator ZoomRenew is a good base conditioning wax. If you don't want to buy any new wax, any will work. I would try to roughly match the temp range you anticipate for nationals, but it's not crucial.

    You DO need to do all the steps. Wax/scrape/brush. Brushing is important. If possible, you should ski in between coats too. The goal is to remove the microhairs that are inherent to a new base.
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  8. #18
    Senior Member chuckp7600's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jclose8 View Post
    If possible, you should ski in between coats too. The goal is to remove the microhairs that are inherent to a new base.
    Unfortunately that doesn't look like an option any more.

    It is also looking like I'll be bringing the skis in for another edge set/stone grind this week - this time at Pierce which has the fancy machines. While the quick tune I had done at the ski hill was really helpfull to the way the skis felt - I can see that the base edge was set in the middle of the metal and is inconsistant and I'm wondering if the side is the same. Not sure it will make a difference, but now that I've seen it I'll think that it will ;)

    Thanks

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckp7600 View Post
    Back to seriousness

    FastMan - does it matter what sort of wax you use for the initial coats? And is it wax/scrape/brush - repeat or do you just keep waxing and scraping for the initial coats? I've got a pair of skis that only have a couple days on them.
    Jamie is right, scrape in between coats. The scraping also serves to clean the bases, by taking away the gunk/dirt that the last coat brought to the surface. After a few coats your bases should be nice and clean, pores and all.

    As far as what wax to apply, any soft hydrocarbon will do. The softer wax will penetrate deeper into the pores of the base at a lower temp, thus offering a means of protecting the bases while doing these multiple applications.

    Jamie mentioned the dominator ZoomRenew. It's a special wax designed for this purpose that has special additives designed to condition and enrich the base. Other wax companies offer similar products. Toko has one with molybdenum in it designed to do the same thing. Good choices if you want to go the extra mile.

    It's very important to match the wax your using to the temp of the iron. Softer waxes, those for warmer snow, have lower melting points, so you should use a lower temp setting on your iron. If you see profuse smoke coming off your iron as you're working it's set too high. Higher iron temps subject the ski's bases to more risk of damage, or sealing the pores, so monitor your temps closely. And don't skimp on the wax when dripping it on the base. You want a nice layer of wax between your base and the iron surface as you're waxing, to protect the base. A hot iron on a dry base is bad news.

    Oh yes, you have another option for deep penetrating your bases. Hot boxing. Some ski shops have a heated box they will put your skis in for a day or so, letting the wax bake deeply into the pores. Probably the best means of doing it, but make sure the shop knows what they're doing. Too hot a setting on the box can do damage to the ski. Ask around as to where the serious racer dudes in your area take their skis to get worked on. Personally, I also like to do a couple wax/scrape applications before taking my skis in to be hot boxed, to ensure they're clean. Don't want to bake dirt into the bases.
    Last edited by FastMan; 03-10-2012 at 01:16 PM.
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  10. #20
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    Thanks for the thumbs up on the article, everyone. Glad you've found it helpful.
    GOOD LUCK, HAVE FUN, GO FAST !!

    www.YourSkiCoach.com

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